The ultimate shish kebab

September 4, 2000
Web posted at: 10:42 a.m. EDT (1442 GMT)

By Steven Raichlen
Los Angeles Times Syndicate

(Los Angeles Times Syndicate) -- Meat on a stick is the world's oldest form of barbecue. It's certainly the most universal. Virtually every culture has a version of meat on the stick: Peruvian anticuchos, Spanish pinchos, Indonesian sate, Japanese yakitori -- the list is virtually endless. But none is quite so famous or beloved as the shish kebab of the Near East.

Turks, Uzbeks, Saudis, Iraqis, Syrians and Iranians claim the parentage of a dish that's so primal that its real patrimony is the human race. The shish kebab originated centuries, perhaps millennia ago, when horsemen galloping across the plains of Central Asia paused long enough to skewer chunks of meat on their swords and roast them over a campfire. Our word "kebab" comes from the ancient Persian word for "meat."

Subsequent generations have brought countless refinements to the art of the shish kebab: the yogurt marinades of Afghanistan and Iran, the olive oil basting mixtures of Turkey and Greece, the extravagant spicing of India, and the colorful vegetables of the Middle East. The truth is that shish kebab can be as simple as chunks of meat on a skewer or as elaborate as the colorful brochettes served at Greek restaurants on the Rue Mouffetard in Paris.

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So what makes the perfect shish kebab? For starters, there's the meat. Lamb is the traditional kebab meat in Central Asia and the Middle and Near East. (Beef is also used in Iran and the Republic of Georgia.) A marinade of some sort is essential -- first to flavor the meat, then to keep it moist during grilling. Slices of onion or peppers placed strategically between the cubes of meat add flavor, color and visual excitement. A brisk fire is needed to sear the meat quickly, while a generous basting with olive oil or saffron-flavored butter keeps the kebab from drying out.

Shish kebab may seem like the easiest dish in the world to make. I've been working on my version for two decades and I'm still coming up with improvements.

Here are some other tips I've found useful over the years:

• Shish kebab is generally made from one of two cuts of lamb: the leg or the shoulder. Leg of lamb has more robust flavor and it's easier to cut, but it's also a little chewier. Shoulder contains more fat, so it tends to be moister and richer. I've use both and I like both. Whatever type of lamb you opt for, be sure to cut the cubes large enough to withstand the withering heat of the fire.
• When buying saffron, look for threads rather than powder. They're less likely to have been adulterated than the powder.
• Middle and Near East grill-jockeys use flat skewers for making shish kebabs. This keeps the lamb chunks from slipping when you turn the kebabs. Flat skewers are available at Middle East markets; alternatively, you can use two-prong skewers, which are available at grill shops and hardware stores.
• You may be surprised to learn that many Turkish grill-jockeys put no vegetables on their shish kebabs. Rather, they skewer the onions, peppers and tomatoes separately, each on its own skewer. The advantage of this system is that, because each vegetable -- and the lamb -- cooks at a different rate, you get to grill each to the right degree of doneness. It also looks cool to serve a platter with four different kebabs (one meat, three vegetables), and imagine the one-upmanship you'll get when you explain the rationale.

Below you'll find my latest iteration -- a colorful kebab that borrows the olive oil and lemon juice marinade of Turkey and the saffron-basting butter of Iran. What results is a shish kebab of such sensational succulence that you'll want to claim it as your own.

Saffron-lemon Shish Kebab

• 1 1/2 pounds leg or shoulder of lamb
• 1 large onion
• 1 large or 2 medium red bell peppers
• 1 large or 2 medium green bell peppers

• 1/2 teaspoon saffron threads
• 1 tablespoon warm water
• 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
• 2 strips lemon zest
• 1 teaspoon sea salt, plus extra for seasoning kebabs
• 1/2 teaspoon pepper, plus extra for seasoning kebabs
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 2 bay leaves

• 1/2 teaspoon saffron thread, crushed
• 3 tablespoons salted butter, cut into 1/2-inch slices
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• Freshly ground black pepper

To prepare Lamb, rinse lamb and blot dry. Cut meat into 1 1/2 inch cubes. Be sure to include fatty pieces as they help make kebabs more succulent. Cut onion into 8 chunks and break each chunk into individual layers. Cut peppers into 1-inch squares.

To prepare Marinade, place saffron in bottom of large glass or stainless steel bowl. Break up threads by pounding with end of wooden spoon. Add 1 tablespoon warm water and soak saffron 5 minutes.

Add lemon juice, zest, salt, pepper, onion and garlic and stir until salt is dissolved. Add olive oil, bay leaves and lamb and stir to mix. Marinate lamb as little as 4 hours or as long as overnight. Stir lamb every few hours to insure even marinating.

To prepare Saffron Butter Basting Mixture, in a saucepan, combine saffron, butter, lemon juice and pepper to taste. Heat until butter melts and all is combined, about 5 minutes on low heat. Baste kebabs.

Set up grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.

Thread lamb chunks on skewers, placing pieces of onion and pepper between them. (Kebabs will look more professional, if you follow same pattern on each skewer.) Grill kebabs until cooked to taste, 2 to 3 minutes per side (8 to 12 minutes in all) for pink lamb. (People of Middle and Near East tend to eat lamb medium or medium-well.) Generously season kebabs with salt and pepper as they grill, and baste with saffron-basting mixture.

Transfer kebabs to platter and let stand 2 minutes, then serve. Never try to eat lamb and vegetables directly off skewer or you might burn your lips. Rather, slide pieces off skewer onto your plate.

Makes 4 servings.

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