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North Korea: A holiday with a difference

By Alyssa Kim for CNN

Scenic Mount Kumgang has attracted tens of thousands of tourists.
Scenic Mount Kumgang has attracted tens of thousands of tourists.

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(CNN) -- North Korea may not come to mind as a holiday hotspot. But curiosity about the country is growing as the communist nation continues to garner worldwide attention.

In 2003, North Korea temporarily closed its borders and tourism dropped as the SARS epidemic swept eastern Asia.

This past week the country halted ferry trips for South Koreans to Kumgang Mountain in honor of Chung Mong-hun, former chairman of Hyundai Asan.

But as North Korea's main holidays draw near, North Korean tour companies worldwide are preparing excursions to provide clients with a rare experience.

All travel is group travel -- even if only one person makes up the "group" -- prepared by tour companies appointed by the Korea International Travel Company. At least one guide and a driver accompany all groups around the country.

Traveling to North Korea is expensive. Tours range from approximately $1,300 to more than $2,000. The few hotels allowed for tourists are of the highest class.

Participants tend to be middle-aged, well-traveled and interested in exploring an enigmatic land.

"People who go there know what they're getting themselves into and act accordingly," said Simon Cockerell, tour operator of Koryo Tours in Beijing.

North Korea welcomed Americans last year during its Arirang Festival, but now the door has been shut again. Mahmood Poonja, managing director of Bestway Tours & Safaris in British Columbia, hoped the government would be more lax with Americans as this year coincided with the Korean War's 50th anniversary.

But according to the Lonely Planet World Guide: "If you're from the U.S. or South Korea you can pretty much forget about it."

However, Americans with dual nationalities planning to travel with a non-U.S. passport have a better chance of getting a visa.

Non-American residents also find entry much easier. Anton Cheng, owner of Tin Bo Travel Service in Ontario, said Canadians have "no problem" getting a North Korean visa.

Sights and security

North Koreans are still devoted to Kim Il Sung, the country's eternal president, even after his death in 1994. Tourists in Pyongyang can see the massive statue of Kim (to whom they must bow down once out of respect), visit the Arch of Triumph and view the ornate metro station.

The jewel of North Korea, Pyongyang, is extremely clean, with barely any cars traveling and workers frequently tidying up the streets.

At the "Truce Village," or Panmunjom in the Demilitarized Zone, tourists can get a taste of Korean War history and feel the lingering friction of the Cold War.

For grand nature views, choose a tour that travels to the sacred Paekdu Mountain. More of the country's beautiful scenery can be seen at Myohyang, Chilbo and Kuwol mountains.

September is a popular traveling month with its National Day, which North Koreans hold close to their hearts as they celebrate their nation's founding.

It comes as no surprise that security is tight for tourists.

Tourists are told what they can photograph. Pictures of working and local people and anything that could be interpreted as unfavorable to the country are almost always prohibited. Tourists cannot wander around the country without their guides.

'Ordinary people'

Tourists must be accompanied by tour guides provided by the state.
Tourists must be accompanied by tour guides provided by the state.

Despite the country practicing communism and living under a dictator, North Korea's people have grown more accommodating to foreigners.

Cockerell mentioned how children, especially the ones outside of Pyongyang, tend to wave and greet tourists. Ten years ago, they would run away.

Cheng said it is also easier to communicate with the locals now, and some of the younger North Koreans can speak English very well.

"That's got to be a change for the better," Cockerell said.

"That's one of the positive effects tourism has."

Since 1998 more than 500,000 South Koreans have taken advantage of the Hyundai Asan trips to their northern neighbor.

North Korea tour companies are optimistic about the future of tourism. Interest is rising, but many who want to travel, specifically Americans, simply cannot because of visa difficulties.

"I can see that the interest is going to be there," Poonja said, "but it all depends on the political situation."


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