Beijing city guide

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Check out The Scene's recommendations for the Chinese capital and send us your own ideas and suggestions.

See

First, you'll want to see the major sights: Tiananmen Square, site of the 1989 student protests; the imperial Forbidden City; the Summer Palace, royal garden and playground of the emperors; and the Ming dynasty Taoist Temple of Heaven.

Beijing has contrasted the Big Four with daring (some would say foolhardy) modern architecture. Paul Andreu's delay-dogged National Grand Theater, nicknamed the "Alien Egg" and worse by locals, is set to open "some time" in 2007; in the meantime you can admire its curves from the construction site. The China Central Television (CCTV) building, also under construction, is an irregular cloud-bothering looped tube, set to be one of the tallest buildings on the Beijing skyline.

The Great Wall might be China's most obvious military defense, but in the city itself, under your feet, runs a 30 km network of over 1000 bomb shelters known as the Underground City, a relic of the 1960's Sino-Soviet conflict built by Chairman Mao in case of nuclear attack.

As the developers sweep through Beijing in preparation for the 2008 Olympics, the city's traditional hutongs (alleys) are rapidly disappearing -- take a stroll around them while you still can and admire the remaining siheyuans (courtyard residences); keep an eye out for Zhang's graffiti. The ones in the Shichahai Lake area are particularly well preserved.

If you're seeking contemplation, the Confucian temple Kong Miao is more peaceful than its touristy Buddhist neighbor, Yonghegong, and offers a quiet space to escape from the city's hustle and bustle.

Opera buffs won't want to miss a Beijing Opera performance but beware that the genuine item at the likes of the Chang'an Grand Theater can be rather punishing at up to five hours long, and though touristy, the slimmed-down, pepped up version at Qianmen Hotel might prove more palatable.

Art fans should head to the 798 Art Factory in the Dashanzi Art District where the Bo Pu tribe (Beijing's bohemians) have repurposed the industrial buildings as galleries, workshops, cafes and bookshops.

Be seen

Fashionistas get their medicine at the Emergency Room where cocktails called Aspirin are prescribed with a generous helping of eclectic beats.

Right now, one of the coolest new spots is Lan, a Philippe Starcke-designed warehouse space where DJs from Cafe Del Mar spin the decks to a throng of models and moguls. Socialites schmooze at the other hotter-than-hotspot, 1969.

Rock aficionados can see up-and-coming Chinese alternative bands strutting their Strats at New Get Lucky, which has rocked Beijing for over a decade.

If insider elegance is your thing, head to the super-exclusive Merchant Prince Club where you can sup champagne to the accompaniment of a baby Grand.

If you still have energy to spare, Babyface attracts house- and hip-hop-loving movers and shakers all jostling for a place under the club's neon spotlights.

Eat

The most romantic table in Beijing is the Merchant Prince Club's balcony table for two; otherwise, the best seats are definitely at Handel Lee's The Courtyard where you can dine on fabulous fusion food while gazing upon the Forbidden City. The latest hotspot is his more recent opening, RBL, for seriously sexy sushi: head downstairs afterwards to supercool blues den Icehouse.

An elegant alternative is Aria -- start with one of their chic champagne cocktails in the jazz lounge then move on to classy modern food in a super stylish setting. Communist opulence might sound contradictory, but at the Red Capital Club -- tucked down an alleyway and marked by a vintage Red Flag limo -- you can dine with the beautiful people and sup "Long March" cocktails amongst lavish Mao memorabilia.

For world-famous Beijing Duck, pay more if you want, but Bianyifang's is succulent and delicious. Hotpot (where you cook slivers of raw meat and vegetables in a steaming pot of broth at the table and add seasoning to taste) comes in savoury (Mongol) and spicy (Sichuan) versions - try the Tiandu Chongqing Hotpot Restaurant in Haidian District.

Beijing's snack stalls are nothing if not eclectic -- visit the Donghuamen Night Market for anything on a stick. For a late-late-night street treat, try Gui Jie for lobster, crab and hotpot. Adventurous gourmands can look out for scorpion and grasshopper kebabs: wash them down with a glass of Yan Jing, the local beer.

Shop

Beijing is a market-lover's paradise: head first to Hongqiao Market for pearls, kites and a look around the fish market in the basement. The new indoor Silk Market is still the place for counterfeit clothing, watches and not much actual silk. Go late in the day to get the best prices, bargain hard -- start at 10% of the asking price and expect to pay 30-40%, never more than half -- and be prepared to walk away to get the best deals.

Antiques hunters can find calligraphies, porcelain and other reproduction Qing dynasty treasures alongside Cultural Revolution relics at Panjiayuan Market -- some of it's even real. Guanyuan -- the bird and fish market on Xizhengmeng -- is quite a spectacle, but be aware that the locals aren't crazy about having their photos taken.

Peninsular Palace Arcade is the place for designer names, and trendsetters will love Xidan Shopping Center for its street style including the latest fashion must-have, t-shirts with nonsensical messages in butchered English.

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