Marseille city guide

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Check out The Scene's recommendations for France's second city and send us your suggestions.

See

Start with a wander around the Vieux Port -- if you're up early, catch the morning's haul at the daily fish market on Belgian Quay, then relax with a petit cafe at one of the bars or cafes lining the marina. When you've watched the world go by and soaked up the atmosphere, head to Le Panier, the medieval quarter, and explore the winding streets. South of the Old Port, the Cathedral of Notre Dame de la Garde, a giant Romano-Byzantine basilica, overlooks the city -- from here you can see how Marseille sprawls along the coast.

The people of Marseille are football crazy -- though Olympic de Marseilles has slipped from the top flight, it's still the biggest club in France and its supporters stand firm. Get tickets and prepare to enjoy the singing, fireworks and general mayhem of an OM match.

The Unite d'Habitation is a Le Corbusier apartment block known fondly by the locals as "La Maison de Fada" (the Lunatic's House). This graceful concrete edifice may have spawned a million ugly children, but its clean lines still present a vision of how modern living might work. If your taste is a little more vintage, the Church of Saint Victor is a twelfth-century church on the site of a fifth-century Roman monastery.

The Musee Cantini has an impressive collection of modern Marseillaise work, while the Musee de la Mode features fashions from the 30's to the present day -- and its cafe is a hotspot for Marseille's beautiful people. If digital is your thing, the Facades project on the Belle-de-Mai, by the train station, is an 8m by 24m video projection and art installation -- look out for the sound bars which measure the noise from La Canebiere, Marseille's main artery.

Be seen

The Marseille vibe is laid-back and relaxed. Take an evening stroll along La Corniche, with its views of Chateau d'If and the Calanques, or people-watch with a pastis in Le Panier. Head to Jali's favorite hangout , L'Indigo on the Escale Borely, and sip a frozen margarita or a Mexican beer while you watch the sun set over the beach. One of the most pleasant places to chill is La Caravelle, Hotel Belle Vue's jazz bar, with its balcony overlooking the Vieux Port. Oenophiles should head to La Part des Anges, a wine bar-cum-restaurant where you can drink your way around France's grands vins. Later on, the area around Le Cours Julien and La Plaine is the place to hang out -- take your pick from the fashionable bars which dot the area, frequented by the cool studenty crowd. For live music, head to Balthazar for reggae and hip-hop or Le Moulin, a renovated cinema, for rock -- it's hosted bands including Oasis, Sonic Youth and Arctic Monkeys.

Eat

The Michelin-starred Le Petit Nice is chef Gerard Passedat's culinary love-letter to the sea. Dine in plush surroundings while you look over the Chateau d'If. You'll find another romantic setting at Chez Fonfon, tucked away underneath the Corniche and famous for their bouillabaisse. If you fancy exploring the regional fare, you'll find bold Provencal cuisine at La Ferme. In La Plaine, take your shoes off and try the pastries and tea at Arabic-inspired La Shambala. Kim Do on Rue Capazza makes the most of Marseille's fresh fish, serving up spankingly-fresh sushi to its hip, healthy clientele. The wood-fired pizzas draw the crowds to Au Petit Naples, a busy beachfront restaurant in the Estaque suburb, while Sur Le Pouce in the 1er arrondissement serves up authentic couscous to the local bohemians.

Shop

The colorful market at La Plaine is great for local produce, while Noailles market and the nearby Arabic shops have an African twist: you'll wonder if you've crossed the Mediterranean and ended up in Algeria. Closer to home, Place aux Huiles offers an enormous number of olive oils and tapenades as well as the honey and lavender products for which Provence is famous. Get your Asterix fix at La Passerelle, also a haven for fans of Tintin, manga and other comic books. If you get peckish, visit Four des Navettes or Leopold for Marseille's traditional little boat-shaped butter cookies. Rue de la Tour and Cours Julien are the place for up-and-coming designers and little boutiques, and if you've developed a taste for Ricard or the Green Fairy, head to Quai du Port where L'Heure Verte sells a wide selection of pastis and absinthe.

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