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TRAVEL

The coolest and hottest of San Francisco's music scene

By Irene Edwards
Sunset magazine

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Marcus Shelby is a bassist and composer with his own band, the Marcus Shelby Jazz Orchestra.

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(Sunsetexternal link) -- Marcus Shelby knows how to stand out in a crowd. Perhaps it's the natty straw fedora he wears to catch a Sunday-night gig at a Mission District dive bar. Or the dapper silhouette he cuts in the corner booth at a swank supper club in North Beach. Whatever the occasion, he's bound to be the most stylish guy in the room.

A bassist and composer with his own band, the Marcus Shelby Jazz Orchestra, he's performed at multiple venues and events around the city; debuted an arrangement for the Oakland Ballet's tribute to Ella Fitzgerald; founded a music label, Noir Records; and served as artist-in-residence for the acclaimed Intersection for the Arts.

"I try to hit up the various jam sessions throughout the week," he says. "As a bandleader, you need to see who's out there." When Shelby is spotted in the audience during a performance, he's likely to be called to the stage for a few songs.

While some buffs still wax nostalgic about the city's 1940s and '50s jazz heyday, "San Francisco's current scene is pretty healthy," Shelby says.

North Beach has the history and lush ambience; the Mission has the avant-garde acts. Like any scene, this jazz world has its regulars.

During a Monday-night show at the legendary Enrico's, Shelby points out the 1965 mural of frolicking bohemians. "See that tiny woman in the middle with the spit curl? Her name is Millie, and we'll be seeing her tonight." By the time the eccentric Millie makes an appearance, the place feels less like a room full of strangers and more like a party of friends.

Info: Visit www.marcusshelby.comexternal link for Marcus Shelby's performance schedule. The Marcus Shelby Jazz Orchestra's latest CD, Port Chicago, is available on Noir Records.

Marcus Shelby's picks

Amnesia. Hot jazz of the '40s comes alive on the first Sunday of the month at this dim, red-walled Mission District dive. A boho crowd in pinstripes and leopard coats gets down on the tiny dance floor. Gaucho, a tribute to gypsy jazz guitarist Django Reinhardt, performs on Wednesdays. Cover charge varies. 853 Valencia St.; www.amnesiathebar.comexternal link or (415) 970-0012.

Cafe Royale. Located in the gentrifying stretch known as the TenderNob, this laid-back lounge hosts film screenings, open-mic poetry slams, and jazz. Shelby rehearses in the basement studio. 800 Post St.; www.caferoyale-sf.comexternal link or (415) 441-4099.

Dalva. Candlelight, an excellent jukebox and a cozy upstairs nook (open Friday and Saturday nights) set this narrow little bar apart from the usual grimy Mission watering holes. 3121 16th St.; (415) 252-7740.

Enrico's. Steeped in North Beach history, with a heated patio for surveying the sidewalk scene. On Monday nights, kittenish crooner Lavay Smith performs with a trio including jazz veteran Allen Smith on trumpet. $$$; lunch and dinner daily. 504 Broadway; (415) 982-6223.

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The heated patio at Enrico's lets people-watchers be cool and stay warm at the same time.

Intersection for the Arts. Find theater, music, literary readings and a gallery at this venue for alternative arts in the Mission. This month, the resident Campo Santo theater troupe debuts Haze (Thursday-Saturday April 13-29; from $9 Friday-Saturday, no set fee Thursday), a play featuring the work of local literary titan Dave Eggers, among others. 446 Valencia; www.theintersection.orgexternal link, (415) 626-2787 or (415) 626-3311 (box office).

Jazz at Pearl's. Sultry diva Kim Nalley, who owns the North Beach supper club with her husband, is a throwback to a more glamorous era. Some Monday nights, she makes a guest appearance with the phenomenal Contemporary Jazz Orchestra; on occasional Tuesdays, she leads her own quintet. $; dinner daily. Two shows every night; cover charge from $10. 256 Columbus Ave.; www.jazzatpearls.comexternal link or (415) 291-8255.

Red Poppy Art House. "One of the coolest spots in town," Shelby says of the intimate performance space, working studio and gallery in the Mission. An artsy house-party vibe and acts from around the world make it feel like a discovery. 7:30 p.m.--11 p.m. Friday and Saturday and by appointment. 2698 Folsom St.; www.redpoppyarthouse.orgexternal link or (415) 826-2402.

Tosca Cafe. Storied North Beach hangout, with the urban legends to prove it. Red vinyl booths and a checkered tile floor set the scene for after-hours celebrity shenanigans. Closed Monday. 242 Columbus; (415) 986-9651.

More insider tips for San Francisco:

Inspiration in a foodie paradise

Best buys in San Francisco

Most inspiring places to get fit


Copyright 2005 The Sunset Publishing Corporation. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
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