Seville city guide

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See

Head first to the Alcazar, a 12th century Moorish palace which took half a millennium to complete (check out the gardens with their beautiful mosaics) then take a stroll around Santa Cruz. Built on the old Jewish quarter, this medieval maze of narrow, winding streets is peppered with picture-postcard painted houses, courtyards and fountains. The Cathedral sums up Seville's heady mix of European and Moorish culture: it's merged with the remains of the mosque that formerly stood on the site, with its famous minaret, La Giralda, repurposed as a bell tower. Climb the stairs for great views, then pay a visit to Christopher Columbus's tomb.

To the north of the city center lies La Macarena, a gently-crumbling alternative area which hosts Seville's oldest market, El Jueves. The city's favorite Virgin resides here, at Basilica de la Macarena (yes, that song was inspired by a girl named after her) as do the legendary bullfighters, Juan Belmonte and Joselito, who lie near other celebrated toreros at the Cementerio de San Fernando.

The Alamillo Bridge, designed by Santiago Calatrava, is a graceful, angled, cantilever sweep over the Guadalquivir which links the Old Town with the north end of La Cartuja island. It's a bit of a trek north, but worth it -- on the way back, visit the Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo, a modern art museum set in a former monastery and ceramics factory.

Just south of the Alcazar Gardens is the ornate Antigua Fabrica de Tabacos -- its female workers were once the inspiration for Carmen, and it's now the center of Seville University. The nearby Plaza de Espana was used as a location in Star Wars for its sweeping semicircle of pillars and wide, open expanse of swirling and checkered tiles.

Across the river lies Triana. Though the Calle Betis, which runs along the riverfront, is busy and a little touristy, the streets behind give a more authentic flavor of Seville and are worth a wander.

Be seen

The Sevillanos treasure their evening paseo, or promenade. Join them in your finery, either alongside the river or through the streets of Santa Cruz. If you fancy a stroll through the Parque Maria Luisa, swing by the art deco Café del Casino for a cocktail on the terrace. The best spot to watch the sun set is the roof garden of the Hotel Dona Maria -- get there a little early to grab a table.

After you've sated your stomach on the tapas trail, La Macarena holds the coolest night spots -- head to Alameda de Hercules where you'll have a wide choice of hip bohemian bars interspersed with somewhat seedier dives. People-watch from the terrace at Bulebar or check out the cool young crowd at gay-friendly El Baron Rampante or little Piola.

Authentic, spontaneous flamenco can prove elusive: your best bet is to cross the river into Triana. Stop off with the arty crowd at the newspaper-wallpapered Café de la Prensa on Calle Betis, then head into the backstreets and follow your ears.

Clubs in Spain don't really get going until 2 or 3 am. At Bestiario on Calle Zaragoza, the DJs spin Spanish pop and hip-hop to the lounge crowd, while Boss on Calle Betis draws the celebrity crowd -- dress to impress. Knock back a glass of agua de Sevilla (a potent mix of spirits, pineapple juice, sparkling wine and cream) by the fountain at classy Abades, then end the night chilling out to house and hip-hop in the white, pillowed area at Catedral 'til dawn breaks.

Eat

Breakfast on churros (fried doughnuts) from a street stall or delicious pastries from one of the Horno San Buenaventura branches; later on, ward off the heat with an ice cream from Rayas.

Seville is rightly famous for its tapas. A good starting point is El Rinconcillo, which claims to be Seville's oldest tapas bar. Bar Giralda, originally a Moorish bathhouse, has plenty to choose from, while Casa Roman is famous for its ham. Smart Casablanca, east of the bullring, serves up the best manchego with membrillo (cheese with quince paste) in town. At Antiguedades, dodge the papier mache body parts to get to the bar, then head outside for a spot of people-watching. Vegetarians can find plenty to eat at Eslava, which also does a nice line in fish dishes, and Bar Levies, which draws a hip, young crowd. In Triana, try the Bar Sol y Sombra, which serves excellent omelets and stew, or bullfighting-themed Casa Cuesta.

If you tire of food on the move, and fancy a proper restaurant meal, La Sopa Boba serves up modern Spanish cooking, while meat-lovers will adore the steaks grilled over oak at Ox's. La Isla is famed for its stunning seafood and celebrity clientele. A candlelit dinner on the Corral del Agua's leafy terrace is perfect for romantics, who will also love the river view at the Kiosco de las Flores on Calle Betis, which specializes in fried fish.

Shop

Fashionistas will love Spanish chains Zara and Mango for their up-to-the-minute trends and great-value basics, and their domestic prices are far lower than elsewhere. Zara also does a good line in menswear. You'll find upscale shops in Plaza Nueva and boutiques on Calle Feria, while El Corte Ingles is department store heaven (and great for keenly-priced silk shawls.) Pick up Cuban cigars at the Cava de Betis in Triana. The Plaza del Museo, next to the Museo de Bellas Artes, hosts an art market on Sundays -- pick up work by local artists here. For local color, head to the food markets in Triana, Encarnacion or Calle Feria to see regional fruit, vegetables and seafood.

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