The story

It all starts on the sixth floor of the five-star Lotte Hotel, in the center of Seoul. After booking my place for Panmunjom Travel Center's Combined Tour, I show up at the agency office at 7:45 on a chilly Friday morning in December to begin my adventure.

Our destination for the day is the DMZ -- or the "heavily fortified" Demilitarized Zone between North and South Korea. Passport and conservative attire are required on the day -- this is not a do-it-yourself tour.

Four kilometers (2.8 miles) wide, 240 km long and roughly 55 km north of Seoul, the DMZ was created on July 27, 1953, following the Armistice Agreement that ended three years of fighting, if not the war itself. Read full article »

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