The story

After more Chinese tea that served as breakfast, I visited a guesthouse-cum-travel agent across the road to enquire about a train ticket to Xian.

The agent informed me all the trains were booked out. He suggested the bus, which sounded a better bet. It was only six hours, compared to 11 for the loco, with the ticket costing 180 RMB ($23.50).

I warily asked if the bus was new, air-conditioned, clean and non-smoking. He nodded enthusiastically, grinning his goofy smile. Read full article »