After more Chinese tea that served as breakfast, I visited a guesthouse-cum-travel agent across the road to enquire about a train ticket to Xian.
The agent informed me all the trains were booked out. He suggested the bus, which sounded a better bet. It was only six hours, compared to 11 for the loco, with the ticket costing 180 RMB ($23.50).
I warily asked if the bus was new, air-conditioned, clean and non-smoking. He nodded enthusiastically, grinning his goofy smile. 
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