Skip to main content
Part of complete coverage on

Doughnuts and potato pancakes: The simple pleasures of Hanukkah

By Joan Nathan, Special to CNN
December 7, 2012 -- Updated 2031 GMT (0431 HKT)
A young Israeli boy looks at a serving of fresh oil-fried and jam-filled doughnuts, known in Hebrew as "sufganiyot", served at one of the local bakeries in Kadima, central Israel, during Hanukkah. A young Israeli boy looks at a serving of fresh oil-fried and jam-filled doughnuts, known in Hebrew as "sufganiyot", served at one of the local bakeries in Kadima, central Israel, during Hanukkah.
HIDE CAPTION
Doughy delights
Get your fill
Pastry auction
The potato makeover
Simple is best
Busy bakers
<<
<
1
2
3
4
5
6
>
>>
STORY HIGHLIGHTS
  • The word Chanukah or Hanukkah means re-dedication and is also known as the Jewish Festival of Lights
  • It is celebrated for eight days and each day a candle on the Hanukiah -- an eight-stemmed candelabrum -- is lit
  • Popular Chanukah food includes latkes (fried potato pancakes) and sufganiyots (doughnuts)

Editor's note: Joan Nathan is an award-winning American author of cookbooks. She has also produced TV documentaries on the subject of Jewish cuisine

(CNN) -- It is no accident that Hanukkah comes in the darkest time of year. The winter holidays are about light, about miracles, and about waking up to light when it is least visible to the naked eye. Food-wise, we jolt our senses alive through texture, taste and flavor with fried foods that couple warmth, crispness, and the smoothness of oil in order to reinvigorate and fine-tune us just as the sun begins to seemingly disappear altogether.

For some, Hanukkah is "the potato pancake holiday" -- a holiday that takes the mundane potato and gives it a massive makeover. It is shredded and tossed and recombined, squeezed and remolded into new form and then fried up lightly so that its texture shifts, its flavor alters. The latke (pancake) itself becomes the miracle of light, of oil, and of transformation.

Read more: Diwali, the Hindu festival of lights

This image of colorful powders, which are used to make rangoli artworks during Diwali, was snapped by iReporter Digamber Singh Rayamajhi as he walked through the busy streets of Kathmandu, Nepal.
"As it is Diwali time the roads were bustling with people coming to shop," he says. "There were lot of little street shops on the pedestrian foot paths selling candles, colors, spices. I thought it looked beautiful and I just clicked few pics through my cell phone." This image of colorful powders, which are used to make rangoli artworks during Diwali, was snapped by iReporter Digamber Singh Rayamajhi as he walked through the busy streets of Kathmandu, Nepal. "As it is Diwali time the roads were bustling with people coming to shop," he says. "There were lot of little street shops on the pedestrian foot paths selling candles, colors, spices. I thought it looked beautiful and I just clicked few pics through my cell phone."
The colors of Diwali
HIDE CAPTION
<<
<
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
>
>>
Christmas celebrations in the Philippines are the longest -- and most lavish -- in the world. These beautifully lit trees in Makati City, Philippines were captured by iReporter Martin Javin. Christmas celebrations in the Philippines are the longest -- and most lavish -- in the world. These beautifully lit trees in Makati City, Philippines were captured by iReporter Martin Javin.
A long and lavish Christmas
HIDE CAPTION
<<
<
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
>
>>
Why the Philippines leads the world in celebrating Christmas Why the Philippines leads the world in celebrating Christmas

Hanukkah has always been this "potato pancake holiday" in my house. No matter what I serve, my family likes simple crispy potato latkes best. Yet in this vastly changing landscape of food, I have tried all different kinds: zucchini, beet, sweet potato, celery root, and apple-horseradish. The favorite is still simple potato. Today we have tiny latkes served with goat's cheese, tomatoes, herbs, or topped with smoked salmon and dill at latke and vodka parties. Topped with salmon, they make great appetizers.

Potatoes have only been part of this holiday since the 18th century, when they came to Europe from the New World. The word latkes stuck, coming from "platke" in Ukrainian and potato pancakes spread throughout Europe. They came to the United States with immigrants from Eastern Europe at the end of the 19th century.

I have celebrated Hanukkah throughout my life, lighting candles each night for eight nights to recall the miracle of the oil. I then have at least one dinner of slowly cooked brisket complemented by crisp fragrant potato latkes cooked in oil and, of course, homemade applesauce.

More from CNN Celebrates: Your photos from Australia total solar eclipse

Yet of all the Hanukkahs of years past, the most memorable for me was spent in Israel with my children at the home of dear friends. As we walked past houses nearby, we saw the candles lit in the windows and everyone gathering with their own families. When we got to our friends, we lit the candles on several menorahs and had a festive meal. There were no latkes that night, only delicious Moroccan stuffed vegetables and sufganiyot, Israeli doughnuts stuffed with jam, much more popular than pancakes in the holy land. Unlike in America where there are too many presents, the highlight of this evening was being together with friends and family.

We waded through crowds of people excitedly waving their money at the bakers in what felt like a giant pastry auction
Joan Nathan, food writer

I also remember taking my children with me to the shuk (marketplace) in downtown Jerusalem to buy our own sufganiyot. We waded through crowds of people excitedly waving their money at the bakers in what felt like a giant pastry auction, all so we could sink our teeth into these massive orbs of fried dough, still warm, dripping with jam.

Share with us your defining moment of 2012

These doughnuts were no laughing matter in Israel, and in America, for the years that followed, we made our own renditions. We were revamping our traditions so that the food and the family, more than the material gifts, were the markers of our joyful memories.

For many years after, I went to my children's schools and helped teach the cafeteria staff about how to make jelly donuts from scratch. This was a process, again, of transforming the dough, that flat ball of flour, once something simple growing in the ground, and turning it into something both crispy and smooth, doughy, savory and sweet.

The doughnut and the latke, more than the tradition of presents and gifts, were the bright light of our winter holiday. Through the mixer and past the frying pan, the flour and the potato and everything else we added over the years transformed before our very eyes -- reminding us of an ancient tradition meant to recall the miracle of light.

Joan Nathan's latest cookbook is titled Quiches, Kugels, and Couscous: My Search for Jewish Cooking in France

ADVERTISEMENT
Part of complete coverage on
December 17, 2012 -- Updated 1539 GMT (2339 HKT)
The champagne is on ice, the fireworks are exploding overhead -- but isn't your New Year's Eve party a bit, well, last year?
December 20, 2012 -- Updated 1807 GMT (0207 HKT)
For some it was an exhilarating holiday to an exotic place, finding new love or conquering their greatest fear. For others, it was witnessing an historic event.
December 14, 2012 -- Updated 0354 GMT (1154 HKT)
Edinburgh is cast aglow at its annual New Year's Eve (Hogmanay) festivities with a torchlight procession involving more than 25,000 locals
For many people, New Year's Eve can be disappointing -- there's so much hype in the lead-up to the event, it often falls short of the mark.
December 12, 2012 -- Updated 0145 GMT (0945 HKT)
If your Christmas is too often one of tacky decorations, over-cooked turkey and bitter family feuds, now may be the time to plan yourself a Yuletide getaway.
December 24, 2012 -- Updated 1036 GMT (1836 HKT)
Jen Best from Liberty, Misouri, snapped this adorable picture of her six month old nephew, Grayson, playing with fairy lights after seeing the idea on Pintrest.
Christmas is synonymous with decorations, markets and extravagant quantities of food. But traditions differ greatly depending on where you are in the world.
December 23, 2012 -- Updated 1522 GMT (2322 HKT)
For something intended to bring pleasure to loved ones, Christmas shopping in the Internet age can be a peculiarly joyless and atomized activity.
December 7, 2012 -- Updated 2031 GMT (0431 HKT)
For some, Hanukkah is "the potato pancake holiday" -- a holiday that takes the mundane potato and gives it a massive makeover.
How much do you know about Christmas traditions around the world? Find out with our quiz.
December 12, 2012 -- Updated 1710 GMT (0110 HKT)
The biennale will attract artists such as Sudarshan Shetty, whose previous works have included this aluminium and wood sculpture known as
The port-city of Kochi, on India's west coast, isn't known for its arts scene but that will change as it's first arts bienale.
December 5, 2012 -- Updated 1341 GMT (2141 HKT)
Where would you find the most Christmas spirit in the world? It's hard to say for certain, but the Philippines would have an excellent shot.
December 6, 2012 -- Updated 1453 GMT (2253 HKT)
From the beautiful to the barmy: check out this cool selection of Christmas lights from across the globe.
December 3, 2012 -- Updated 1401 GMT (2201 HKT)
With presents to buy and families to visit, the holiday season can become an endless to-do list, but a winter vacation can ease the stress.
November 13, 2012 -- Updated 1631 GMT (0031 HKT)
Actors pray at the end of a re-enactment of the life of the Indian king Lord Ram during the Hindu festival of Diwali.
As celebrations to mark the Hindu festival of Diwali get under way, iReporters submit their best shots from around the world.
ADVERTISEMENT