Models in the BCBG Max Azria show present the label's latest collection during New York Fashion Week on February 6. Trend forecasters say there's a greater interest in looks incorporating fur, which has been reflected on the runway this season. Not a fan? Check out a vegan designer out to prove faux can be fabulous.
(CNN) -- When Joseph Altuzarra sent a model down the runway in an enormous black-and-white intarsia fox fur coat on Saturday, Elle's Anne Slowey tweeted,"(Cruella de Vil) eat your heart out."
This, oddly enough, would not be the only time a ready-to-wear look would be compared to the pelt-wearing villain's wardrobe during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.
As fashion week faded to black Thursday with the final shows by Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Marc Jacobs, the stylish affair ended exactly the way it started -- with fur, fur, everywhere, from fox to raccoon to mink.
On opening day, BCBG Max Azria showed off a collection inspired by Istanbul's architecture and the gypsies of southern Europe. Amid the layers of chunky knit sweaters and patterned tunics were knee-length, patterned fur vests and cropped fur jackets.
It's not only real pelts prancing the catwalk. Designers such as Anna Sui, Jeremy Scott and Christian Siriano accented their offerings with faux fur elements.
"This is almost the golden age in fur," said Charles Ross, the Head of International Marketing for Saga Furs. "Our skin prices are going up 20-30% every year."
All this fur fervor raises the question: Is using real animal hide worth the potential controversy?
After all, it's difficult to forget the great raccoon incident of '96, in which an animal-rights activist served Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour a dead raccoon at her lunch at the Four Seasons.
We haven't seen a paint-splashed mink in the headlines lately. Is it possible the moral outrage over the use of animal skin is over?
Stephen Toner, editor of Exit magazine, waits in New York's Garment district ahead of the Calvin Klein show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week on Thursday, February 14.
Photos: Fashion Week in a flash
Vegan fashion: Where faux meets fabulous
Veteran furrier Dennis Basso celebrated his brand's 30th anniversary with a runway collection of dazzling gowns and statement furs. And relative newcomer Brandon Sun, who previously worked in the fur departments for J. Mendel and Oscar de la Renta, displayed 20 ensembles, incorporating Blackglama mink and fox fur.
Non-fur-centric designers, like BCBG, played with fur collars, hats, capes, stoles and detailing. There was fur in natural hues, as well as dyed. There were even furry boots.
Photos: Fashion Week in a flash
"Fur is the most luxurious thing you can use down the runway," said Lubov Azria, chief creative officer for Max Azria designs, and Max's wife.
Lubov said the brand uses both real and faux fur in its designs, but the runway entices artistic extravagance.
Mathieu Mirano's fall presentation was pelt-heavy, including a nude tulle gown with black fox fur panels. For Mirano, an upstart in the business at just 21, the appeal comes from fur's versatility.
"You can use it on a coat, a jacket, or even a dress," Mirano said. "You can pair it with leather, sequins, wool."
Mirano said his brand is all about specialty, luxury fabrics, and fur matches that particular mindset.
The furry look is right on trend for fall and winter of 2013, according to fashion forecaster WGSN. Meanwhile, around the tents, many attendees cloaked themselves in fur to keep warm amid the historic snowfall that buried the Northeast in the middle of Fashion Week.
Industry experts like Ross attribute the fur frenzy to its newfound accessibility -- no longer associated only with the rich, grandmotherly set, it has caught on with a younger, hipper crowd. Fur is also more widely available to consumers. It's not exclusive to specialty fur boutiques like Dennis Basso's Madison Avenue store. High-end department stores now carry scads of the fluffy stuff.
But the fur-lined autumn and winter collections are a sharp contrast to Vaute Couture's presentation last Wednesday, which was billed as the first all-vegan independent fashion house to show during New York Fashion Week.
Vegan couture: Faux meets fabulous
The label's founder opted for organic cotton velvets and velveteen, colorful faux fur and soy fiber knits.
Joshua Katcher, who crafted the animal-free men's shoes for Vaute's presentation, said the use of leather and fur is tough to rationalize now because of the technological advances of faux products.
Saga's Ross disagreed: "The studies have shown that faux fur is an environmental nightmare. That it's a non-biodegradable product made from petroleum whereas fur is very biodegradable and has a long shelf-life."
But Ross also contends that designers now feel more confident using the real deal after examining the chain of production and finding it humane.
According to the European Fur Breeders' Association, the E.U. is the world's largest producer of factory farmed fur. Farms like Saga's are governed by E.U. farming regulations. China is the second largest worldwide producer of fur pelts, but the country is often lambasted for its lack of regulation. Fur farming is currently banned in the United Kingdom, Croatia and Austria.
"Fur is not for everybody," Ross said. "For people that have made the decision not to use fur, we certainly respect that. But, other people should also respect the right for a designer to use it."
Saga's fur auction house, located in western Finland, supplies fox, mink and Finn raccoon to more than 400 designers globally, many of which are showing at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.
Another reason for the fur boom is that companies like Saga are wooing and supporting young designers.
Saga operates a research facility in Copenhagen, the Saga Design Centre, and invites established and emerging designers to visit and experiment with new techniques. In the case of anticipated newcomers who might not have the capital to purchase the high-end product, Ross said the Design Centre will make an investment in their first collection by providing a couple of pelts.
More than 25,000 fashion industry workers have visited the center since it opened in 1988, according to Saga's website.
As for faux fur, designers say imitation is the best form of flattery.
"I think the use of real fur vs. faux fur is up to the designer and the wearer. I prefer real fur, it's more luxe," designer Mirano said.
"A woman should have options and I think a lot of people do buy synthetic furs," Lubov said, adding that he thinks the product still needs further development.
Still, staunchly anti-fur designers argue it's as simple as changing the perception of luxury -- and the definition of cool.
"In the fashion world, being a villain is definitely a sought after aesthetic and that's a problem for ethical designers because we come across as the do-gooders," Katcher said.
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Models take to the risers during the Brandon Sun show on February 13.
Designer Brandon Sun preps models backstage during his show. Sun launched his first collection of luxury fur accessories in 2011.
Clothes pile up at a change station backstage at the Brandon Sun show.
A model approaches the end of the runway during the Custo Barcelona show on February 10.
A model wears a fur robe at the Brandon Sun show on February 13.
A young girl waits with her mother in the lobby of the Lincoln Center on February 10.
Artist Patricia Mota wears a coat while braving the cold weather in a long slitted dress on February 11.
Faux fur was also on display at Fashion Week. An attendee wears animal-free arm warmers outside the Lincoln Center on February 8.
Another guest shows off his inherited antique coyote fur coat on February 8.
Models let their hair down after the Tadashi Shoji show on February 7.
Guests watch the Dennis Basso show on February 12. Basso is one of America's premier fur designers.
The Russian consulate hosted 
People arrive for the Ralph Lauren show on February 14.
A woman arrives for the Ralph Lauren show.
NYPD community affairs detective Rick Lee, also known as the "Hipster Cop," directs traffic.
A woman shows her Valentine's Day spirit outside the Ralph Lauren show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.
A security guard rests at the bottom of the stairs at the Nanette Lepore show during New York Fashion Week on Wednesday, February 13. Photographer Zoran Milich has been capturing the scene at Fashion Week for CNN as designers showcase their fall and winter 2013 collections through February 14.
A model gets a touchup before hitting the runway on February 13.
A model's nametag hangs above a clothing rack backstage on February 13.
Snacks are available for models on February 13 at the Nanette Lepore show.
Stylist Lindsay Mikasell works with the hair and makeup crew at the Falguni and Shane Peacock show on February 13.
A fur-clad model watches as other models from the Brandon Sun show line the stage on February 13.
Clothes are piled up at a change station backstage at the Brandon Sun show on February 13.
A model reads backstage at the Brandon Sun show on February 13.
A guest looks at the designer board in the lobby of the Lincoln Center at New York Fashion Week on Tuesday, February 12.
A model gets a touchup backstage at the Dennis Basso show on February 12.
Makeup professionals pick up tips from visiting makeup artists backstage on February 12.
Rudy the dog walks around Fashion Week videotaping shoes for a fashion beauty website on February 12.
The Dennis Basso show featured fur-heavy designs on February 12.
Guests watch models on the runway at the Dennis Basso show on February 12.
Comedian Daniella Pineda walks outside the Lincoln Center during New York Fashion Week on Monday, February 11.
Guests line up for a show on February 11.
Artist Patricia Mota wears a revealing dress in the cold on February 11.
Fashion Week guests take a break on February 11 at the Lincoln Center.
Models show off the Carolina Herrera line on February 11.
Guests make their way backstage after the Carolina Herrera show on February 11.
A wealth of shoes accumulate in a box backstage at the Carolina Herrera show on February 11.
Movers transport clothes after each show.
Seating is changed out between fashion shows on February 11.
A young girl eats the free energy bar she got in the lobby during New York Fashion Week on Sunday, February 10.
A model and a crew member are seen backstage near the entrance to the runway on February 10.
Tailors use steam machines to remove wrinkles from outfits backstage at the Custo Barcelona show on February 10.
Outfits are fixed at the last minute backstage on February 10.
Lights illuminate the seats where hundreds of magazine writers and editors will watch the Custo Barcelona show on February 10.
Photographers cram together to shoot the runway on February 10.
A Custo Barcelona model approaches the end of the catwalk on February 10.
People make their way home after enduring the cold on February 10 outside the Lincoln Center.
Fans take pictures outside of the Details men's show on February 10 at the Public Library in Manhattan.
Backstage assistants wait with their irons before the Tracy Reese show on February 10.
A woman takes a photo of teams and models backstage at the Tracy Reese show February 10.
A laminated sign backstage on February 10 reminds models of the drinking age.
A New York police officer watches fashion show replays late Saturday, February 9, while guarding the Lincoln Center.
Visitors walk around the "Box" at the Rafael Cennamo show on February 9. The "Box" is a presentation room where models stand still sporting a designer's fashions.
A visitor takes pictures at the Rafael Cennamo show on February 9.
A model walks by a mound of snow on February 9.
A fashionable iPad user checks e-mails on February 9.
Well-dressed visitors to Fashion Week are photographed by legendary fashion photographer Bill Cunningham on February 9.
An attendee poses for the camera on February 9.
A model gets her hair straightened for the Mara Hoffman Show on February 9.
A model has her nails painted at the Rebecca Minkoff show on Friday, February 8.
Models talk backstage on February 8.
One model practices the runway barefoot at the Rebecca Minkoff show February 8.
Models are prepped backstage at the Nautica show February 8.
Early morning preparation for another day on the runway on February 8.
Backstage, "Project Runway" models get prepared on February 8.
Backstage at the Carmen Marc Valvo show February 8, models get their hair and makeup done.
A visitor sports eye-catching shoes at the Lincoln Center on February 8.
A model has her makeup done before a show February 8.
A visitor attends Fashion Week at New York's Lincoln Center on February 8.
Backstage at The Project Runway show at Fashion Week on February 8.
Creative hair and dress were on full display February 8.
Visitors check out the Lincoln Center on February 8.
A visitor attends Fashion Week on February 8.
Barneys New York sells Mickey Mouse ears in collaboration with Disney at New York Fashion Week on Thursday, February 7.
Members of the audience await the Tadashi Shoji show on February 7.
A model stops at the end of the runway on February 7. She's wearing a dress from Tadashi Shoji's latest collection.
Discarded model name tags pile up in the trash after the Tadashi Shoji show on February 7.
Men wear high-water pants at the Lincoln Center on February 7.
An attendee reads a magazine on February 7 to catch up on what's new.
A new Mercedes-Benz is on display February 7. The luxury car company sponsors New York Fashion Week.
A guard watches the door to the showroom on February 7. Archive fashion photographs line the walls.
Crowds watch a model walk the runway during Timo Weiland's show on February 7.
Outfits line the racks backstage on Wednesday, February 6, at the BCBG Max Azria show.
French designer Max Azria gets his hair cut behind the scenes on February 6.
A model is directed during a runway practice session on February 6.
An artist sketches on the sidelines February 6 at the BCBG Max Azria show.
A model adjusts her outfit backstage on February 6.
Models crowd the runway on February 6 to show off BCBG Max Azria's fall collection.
A woman wears a necklace made from New York MetroCards on February 6 at a show touting Russia's textile and apparel industry.
A model wears a headpiece by Sergey Polyakov, a young Russian milliner.
A model poses in a dress by designer Dmitry Loginov Arsenicum made of feathers and feather-like plastic cut-outs.
A model checks her phone while getting her nails done backstage on February 6.
Billed as the first all-vegan fashion label to present at New York Fashion Week, Vaute Couture held a solo show on Tuesday, February 5. A model checks his hair backstage. View more photos from the event.
Rescue dogs presented at the Vaute Couture show on February 5 were available for adoption.
A store near the Lincoln Center hangs a Fashion Week sign in its window on February 4.
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