Death before dishevelment: Enter into Congo's cult of elegance

11 photos: Death before dishevelment: Enter into Congo's cult of elegance

Known as "Sapeurs," these dapper dressers are part of a Congolese subculture devoted to the cult of style. In Brazzaville and Kinshasa -- the capitals of neighboring Republic of the Congo and the Democratic Republic of the Congo -- they stand out among the widespread poverty, strutting the streets like walking works of art.

Hide Caption

1 of 11

11 photos: Death before dishevelment: Enter into Congo's cult of elegance

These week, "les Saps" gather for the annual commemoration of the death of Stervos Niarcos, the leader of the La Sape movement, at his grave in the Gombe cemetery in Kinshasa.

This image forms part of a new picture essay by photographer Junior D. Kannah, published by Getty Images.

Hide Caption

2 of 11

11 photos: Death before dishevelment: Enter into Congo's cult of elegance

Every Sapeur has his own unique style. Pastel-colored or dark three-piece suit, cravat or bow tie, and cigars and pipes are de rigueur.

Hide Caption

3 of 11

11 photos: Death before dishevelment: Enter into Congo's cult of elegance

"The Sapeur is also about masculinity, politics, changing the stereotypes about how people view Africa," says Didier Gondola, author of "History of the Congo."

Hide Caption

4 of 11

11 photos: Death before dishevelment: Enter into Congo's cult of elegance

Many Sapeurs rent or borrow clothes from fellow fops or get them from friends and relatives visiting from Europe.

Hide Caption

5 of 11

11 photos: Death before dishevelment: Enter into Congo's cult of elegance

The acronym SAPE roughly translates from French as "The Society for the Advancement of Elegant People."

Hide Caption

6 of 11

11 photos: Death before dishevelment: Enter into Congo's cult of elegance

Sapeurs often dress up and meet in streets or bars for an informal contest. It's an occasion to show off the designer labels and unique combination of styles.

Hide Caption

7 of 11

11 photos: Death before dishevelment: Enter into Congo's cult of elegance

In the 1970s, Western suits were prohibited. Even then, "les Sapeurs" rebelled by wearing aggressively non-conformist clothes.

Hide Caption

8 of 11

11 photos: Death before dishevelment: Enter into Congo's cult of elegance

Sapeurs say they aren't mere fashionistas - as many regard dapper dressing as a "political statement."

Hide Caption

9 of 11

11 photos: Death before dishevelment: Enter into Congo's cult of elegance

French, Italian, British, and Japanese fashion brands are the most sought-after. Some Sapeurs boast of spending $5,000 on a single suit. Imitations are not tolerated.

Hide Caption

10 of 11

11 photos: Death before dishevelment: Enter into Congo's cult of elegance

The attention to detail by "les Saps" tends to include a focus on jewelry, embroidery and color.

Hide Caption

11 of 11