MARCH 3, 2000 VOL. 26 NO. 8

The Casual Touch
For men - bright colors, informal styles and more sophistication
By KAVITA DASWANI

Asiaweek Pictures The influence of womenswear can clearly be seen in this bold new approach from the masters of moderation, Alfred Dunhill

If billowing, laced-up shirts are your thing, or trainers with toggle pants, or jackets made from the softest leather imaginable, then this is the season for you. For the first time, there is a synergy between menswear and women's fashion. Even Alfred Dunhill, the home of British understatement, reflects the fascination for color seen in women's lines. You'll find it in the linings of the suits, which have broken out in stripes and checks, and in many of the shirts and ties. A recent trend toward sportswear-influenced fashion continues this season, but retailers say the mood is now much more sophisticated. The lines are cleaner and the fabrics more luxurious.

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Such is the importance of informality in current fashion that Cerruti is calling its line "Formalinformal." Says company president Nino Cerruti: "Men are living differently today. And for that, we need to be able to give them clothes that go from one occasion to the next." From Cerruti's top-of-the-line collection, Arte, even super-luxurious clothes have been distilled into sportswear-driven styles. So the Arte customer will be wearing a boxy caban-style coat as a jacket, or two-buttoned blazers and lightweight knit tops with wide-legged pants. Reversible jackets and ensembles shaped like easy pajamas add to the relaxed feel for spring and summer. The fabrics are soft and pliant, in silk and cashmere blends, while the colors revolve around a strong palette of slate and off-blacks, accented with brights such as yellow and sky blue.

At Alfred Dunhill, the motto for suits is: "As for structure, let's make it unstructured." Ferragamo is giving its customers natural materials with a rustic texture, in colors such as ecru, cool beige, slate and terracotta. Technosport is a big look with the Italian house this season, with lashings of silver, white, dark gray and aqua green giving a sharp millennial feel to collections. Windbreakers and jackets close with invisible hooks, and come in treated waterproof fabrics. Lightness is key, either in pure silk raincoats or soft knitwear. You'll find plenty of ties in juicy shades such as berry and plum. Texture is more important than print, with brands like Cerruti devising techniques such as overlaying fabrics. Alfred Dunhill introduces the seven-fold tie made from a single piece of heavy silk twill and foldedŠ well, seven times.