HAJJ 2004
THE HAJJ 2001
ISLAM
THE HAJJ
THE PILGRIMS

Siraj Wahab is a reporter for the Saudi Arabia-based Arab News. He filed this piece from Mina, Saudi Arabia, for CNN.com, on Sunday, March 4.

For reporter, Hajj is about 'universality of Islam's message'

MECCA, Saudi Arabia -- I know that people get the impression from aerial photos that the Hajj is a sea of white, but being on the ground with the pilgrims I am amazed at how colorful it is.

Each national group is carrying a flag. Many of the pilgrims have signs or some sort of design pinned to their clothing to help them identify each other. They have prayer rugs over their arms and bags clutched in their hands. Even the pilgrims' faces are colorful. Every shade of human skin tone, from palest white to blackest black and every possible tone in between is represented.

As a journalist, covering the Hajj is the climax of my career. It is an opportunity for me to change the images of Muslims that have been planted in Western minds. Islam is not about violence. The message of true Islam is peace. Here at Arafat I am watching millions of Muslims praying for peace and seeking atonement for their sins. Today I have witnessed many emotional scenes, and I can say that the Hajj is truly about the universality of Islam's message. It is very difficult to observe the pilgrims who have come from war-torn areas like Palestine, Kashmir and Chechnya. They feel that they are not making the pilgrimage for themselves alone. No, with every step they take they are begging for help from Allah to end the suffering in their homelands.

People are very generous. I have seen many groups handing out bottles of water and fruit. When we arrived the place was perfectly cleaned, but throughout the day that pristine condition has been impossible to maintain with the huge numbers of pilgrims. It is a credit to the Saudi authorities that they have learned to cope with the enormous logistics of this event. Year after year, millions of pilgrims come and they are moved, fed, housed and cared for efficiently. The arrangements get better yearly as lessons are learned and new technology is brought into use.

Nations outside Saudi Arabia are doing more to educate the Muslims coming for the Hajj, and this has been very helpful. The efforts of the Indonesians stand out. They are very well organized and the Indonesian pilgrims have obviously received much education on how to perform Hajj focusing both on spiritual and practical aspects. They have their religious guides with them, and these leaders are keeping them engaged in prayer and directing their minds toward making the most of their time here at Arafat. They stay together in tight groups, with the strongest pilgrims on the outside and the weakest toward the center. They take small steps and move forward as one. This helps to keep them from getting lost or injured.

As a journalist it has been overwhelming for me to be here. As this is not my first Hajj, I am better able to take in all the scenes around me rather than just focus on my own experience. I feel so uplifted listening to all the pilgrims reciting the talbiyah -- Labaik Allahumma Labaik. All the pilgrims are calling out to Allah that they are there for the Hajj only to be at His service and to worship Him. It is incredible to see 2 million people in one place at one time reaching out for their Creator. I am certain that the atmosphere of peace and goodwill found here today is unmatched anywhere else on Earth.