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December 21, 1996

City Guides and Maps: Zimbabwe

(CNN) -- South Africa's Victoria Falls is a place of legends. Noted Scottish explorer David Livingstone came upon these waters in 1855. The falls plunge 300 feet over a steep edge in the Zambezi River to create one of the worlds great wonders.

"No white man had ever seen the falls before," said Will Ruck-Keene, a founder of the nearby Tongabezi Lodge. "So it was all folklore, what (Livingstone) knew about it. And he was a brave man, because, literally translated, the locals call it 'Mosi Oa Tunya,' which is 'the slope that thunders."

"According to his diaries," Ruck-Keene continued, "(Livingstone) thought he was coming across a huge, great geyser or fissure in the earth's surface."

In the mid-1800s, Livingstone surveyed the falls and camped for several weeks on a small island just inches from the edge of the raging white water. Today, you can walk in his footsteps -- as well as do something he couldn't: Enjoy a five-course meal on Livingstone Island, courtesy of the Tongabezi Lodge.

At one of the more exotic locations along the Zambezi River, the Tongabezi Lodge is just a 30-minute drive from the falls. The Zambezi is Africa's fourth-largest river and defines the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. The lodge is on the Zambian side and many find it an ideal place to make a last stop on a South African safari.

This is a relaxing spot, where gourmet meals come along with open air rooms and tranquil views of the river. While a long way to come to put your feet up, its hard to beat the romance of canoeing at sunset or lounging in the waterfall pool.

Ruck-Keene built the lodge in 1989 with his partner Ben Parker. They characterize it as "luxury in the bush." Amenities include hot and cold running water, as well as gourmet room service. And then there are the sleeping arrangements.

Accommodations include four open-air rooms, nestled in trees overlooking the river. These adult-style "tree houses" are not enclosed, but feature thatched roofs and even a loo with a view. Each is an expression of whimsy. Take, for instance, "The Bird House," perched high on a hill with stunning views of the river.

If slumbering in the open air doesn't entice you, several elaborate tented rooms are offered as well. And no matter where you choose to rest your sleepy head, grand room service will follow as part of the rustic elegance.

The lodge has a master chef, Craig Higgins, who's considered one of Scotland's finest culinary products. Since the closest supermarket is 300 miles away, fresh herbs, lettuce, and artichokes are all nurtured and grown on site in a full garden.

Higgins' scrumptious meals prepare guests well for lodge excursions. One popular adventure is the world's longest bungee jump, from 350 feet above the Zambezi River. Another adrenaline-pumping option is a jaunt down the river's Class Five rapids. The world rafting championships were recently held on these same surging waters. Although not a beginner-level experience, it's a thrilling ride for seasoned rafters.

Aside from the action, the Zambezi offers close encounters with nature and exposes travelers to many magical African sights. Visitors will likely agree with discoverer Livingstones characterization of Victoria Falls: "A place so lovely it must have been gazed upon by angels in flight."

Rates at Tongabezi range from $260-$315 (U.S.) per day and include lodging, meals , all drinks and excursions. Boston-based Explore, Inc., can help arrange a trip to this remote African destination. Call (617) 422-0913 for more information..

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City Guides and Maps: Zimbabwe

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