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Erickson's deli

The flavors of Andersonville

Erickson's Deli is about a block north on Clark. Owner Ann-Mari Nilsson sells anything you'd want for an old-fashioned smorgasbord. That may include pickled herring, Viking mustard, or King Oscar fishballs. If you're bitten by the bug, Nilsson ships her delectables around the United States.

If you've got a sweet tooth, visit the Swedish Bakery, at 5348 N. Clark St. Temptations include fancy marzipan and pretty cookies with long names. It's also home to the best limpa bread around (a rye-bread made with white flour and fennel).

Simon's Tavern

Simon Lundberg ran a speakeasy on Clark Street during prohibition and opened his saloon in 1934. He also ran a makeshift bank on the premises, which is still located behind a bullet-proof door inside the tavern. Next to the bank is an old juke box that plays Swedish favorites, such as hits by the 70s group Abba.

Lundberg's son, Roy, still lives in an apartment above Simon's. He spends time at the old bar below, and can spin a tale or two about a bygone era in Chicago.

The bar's chief historian is the proprietor Scott Martin. He grew up in the neighborhood and says his grandfather considered the tavern a home away from home.

After your tour of Simon's, ask Martin if he's got any glogg on tap. It's a Swedish drink made from port wine, raisins and cinnamon. Or on a hot day, enjoy a Swedish beer.

If you'd prefer to experience your meal in a leisurely fashion, go to Ann Sather's, at 5207 N. Clark St., Swedish pancakes with lingonberry preserves are standard fare around the clock.

Directly across the street, you'll find Simon's Tavern, founded by Simon Lundberg in 1934. Stop in for a drink and a story. (See sidebar.)

Andersonville has changed a lot since Lundberg's day. Now, many ethnic groups call it home. That includes a large Middle Eastern population -- now it's just as easy to find falafel as it is to find limpa bread.

Scott Martin, the proprietor of Simon's, says everybody is welcome on Clark Street. If you're thinking about visiting Chicago, take that invitation seriously. You'll undoubtedly find a smorgasbord of the delights the city has to offer.

 

Nancy Zuckerbrod is a staff writer at CNN Headline News and an avid weekend traveler with a special fondness for Chicago.

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