A taste for gingerbread
by the sea
Florida's Amelia Island remembers its Victorian heyday and so much more
June 12, 1997
Web posted at: 10:32 a.m. EDT (1432 GMT)(CNN) -- Long before the days of Mickey Mouse and glitzy Miami resorts, a small island off the coast of northeastern Florida established itself as "the" tourist destination in the state. The wealthiest Americans of the late 1800s summered in opulent Victorian cottages, bellied up to a hand-carved mahogany bar at the local saloon, and savored the waters' bountiful supplies of seafood.
More than a century has passed since a magazine dubbed that little island full of big fish the "Queen of Summer Resorts." But Amelia Island, in its own quiet way, is still in the running. Many of the charms that lured the wealthy in the late 1800s have survived through the 20th century, un-plasticized, unadulterated and dignified. In addition to more than 50 blocks with homes
and buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places, Amelia Island boasts both the oldest tourist hotel and oldest saloon in Florida, as well as miles of unspoiled beaches and dunes.
While ostentatious evidence of their stint on the island is abundant, vacationing industrialists were not the first to lay claim to Amelia Island. The 13.5-mile sliver of land has the distinction of having been ruled under eight flags, more than any other place in the United States.
Traces of the island's first inhabitants date back almost 4,000 years. The Timucuan Indians appear to have lived along the coast and barrier islands, with as many as 30,000 on Amelia Island itself.
What is your favorite island getaway? The mid-1500s began the Euro-tug-of-war over the island -- bringing turmoil and disease that all but eradicated the Timucuans. The French Huguenots arrived in 1562, seeking religious freedom. Shortly thereafter, the Spanish took over, and, about two centuries later, the British staked their claim. In 1812, the Spanish -- ruling the island for the second time -- ceded control to the United States. Mexican rebels, a group called the "Patriots of Amelia Island," and others claimed the island at one time or another.
During the Civil War, the Confederates flew their flag over Amelia Island for
almost a year at Fort Clinch, which is now a state park. By March of 1862, Union troops claimed the fort and held it until the end of the war.
Tourism surged after the war, with Northerners arriving on steamships from New York. But the boom of gingerbread houses and greenbacks petered out; by the 1900s, new rail lines were luring tourists to resorts further south, such as St. Augustine.
Today, the island that the 20th century forgot thrives -- not in spite of that diversion, but largely because of it. Visitors can experience Amelia Island much as it was 100 years ago, but with the conveniences of easy access and modern amenities. Learn more about this southernmost point of the "Golden Isles" chain:
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