VENICE, Italy (CNN) -- Venice's charm is by nature surreal -- it's a house of mirrors, swimming with ghosts and mysterious undercurrents. Carnaval (or "Carnevale," as it's known here) pushes the boundaries of reality just that much further toward fantasy.

The city becomes a massive masquerade ball for the festival, which begins 10 days before Lent. Costumes harken to the 18th century, when Carnaval was an all-consuming affair of gambling and debauchery beginning the day after Christmas.

Hooded, cloaked figures in traditional white masks and tri-corner hats still ply the waterways in gondolas and make appearances at balls, pageants and concerts. But the popularity of Carnaval here is a revival, not a continuation of tradition. In 1797, the wanton and weakened city had fallen into Napoleon's hands, and the party was over.

The modern version of Carnaval came into being about 20 years ago. Through much-tempered, the magic and masked mystery of two centuries ago thrives.