Oscillating between flashy and understated, escapist and down to earth, Milan Fashion Week’s Fall-Winter 2023 collections conjured glamor in very different ways, with several brands putting on theatrical displays that provided ample entertainment.
Over 50 shows were held in Italy’s fashion capital during the event that concluded on Monday though there were a few notable absentees — namely, Marni and Versace (the house will instead show in Los Angeles March 10).
A mountain of condoms at the Diesel show kicked off proceedings. The backdrop for creative director Glenn Martens’ Fall-Winter 2023 collection, predictably, turned out to be one of the week’s most Instagrammed and talked about sets. True to the label’s provocative ethos, the Belgian designer put on a sexy, tongue-in-cheek runway of low-low rise jeans and skin-revealing clothes that confirmed his mastery of denim. Many of the sheer lacy effects obtained through devoré, a technique that uses a paste to burn through cellulose fibers, leaving woven fabric behind in a pattern.
More skin was flaunted at Roberto Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana. The former channeled hedonism and excess, with patchwork leather trimmed in crystals, animal motifs, lots of faux-fur and black lace reinvented in countless different ways from corsets to figure-hugging dresses. Dolce & Gabbana meanwhile reached for a glamazon aesthetic through lingerie dressing — bras with metal cups, lacy teddies, embroidered slips — paired with feathered parkas, white tuxedos and hourglass shaped double-wool coats — no doubt a nod to the brand’s ongoing collaboration with Kim Kardashian, who was seated front row.
Elsewhere, other big-name brands like Fendi, Prada, Max Mara and Giorgio Armani adopted an altogether more conservative approach to fashion, with clothes that were sensible and seemingly designed for everyday life. The slew of tailored gray coats seen almost everywhere on the runway were a case in point — as was the footwear, which spanned loafers, work boots and black patent shoes.
Just as in previous seasons, Hollywood royalty and influencers were back in full swing, drawing huge crowds outside the shows and proving Milan still holds plenty of A-list appeal.
Julia Fox and actor Haley Lu Richardson of “White Lotus” fame were spotted at Diesel, while Sienna Miller, Dua Lipa and Emma Roberts were just some of the notable names attending the Prada show. Gucci had A$AP Rocky, Maneskin, Dakota Johnson and Chinese actor and singer Xiao Zhan among its guests; and Moschino welcomed Saudi model and influencer Hala Abdallah and Palestinian social media star Julia Hussein, who showed up in matching outfits. At Bottega Veneta, the arrival of BTS band member RM inside the venue almost caused a stampede by excited fellow attendees, prompting security to intervene.