Having suffered immeasurably under the rule of Pol Pot during the 1970s, Cambodia has emerged as one of Southeast Asia's most fascinating destinations. Its capital, Phnom Penh, has a modern city buzz yet its stunning golden palaces and temples retain a connection with the region's Buddhist past. The cruelty of Pot's Khmer Rouge regime is laid bare at deeply moving museums in his one-time prisons and killing fields. They're vital viewing for all visitors. Further north, the majesty of ancient Cambodia is inescapable near Siem Reap, in the crumbling temples of Angkor. Intrepid travelers will find much to love in the pretty old town of Battambang.