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Travel

Horse racing’s culinary arms race

Updated 10:02 AM EST, Thu November 14, 2019
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Some of the world's top chefs are doing battle in horse racing's gastronomic Derby as tracks bid to offer the ultimate in fine-dining experiences.
Some of the world's top chefs are doing battle in horse racing's gastronomic Derby as tracks bid to offer the ultimate in fine-dining experiences.
Ascot Racecourse
Royal Ascot has assembled a stellar line-up of chefs with nine Michelin stars between them for 2020.
Royal Ascot has assembled a stellar line-up of chefs with nine Michelin stars between them for 2020.
Jeff Spicer/Getty Images for Ascot Racecourse
Top French chef Raymond Blanc has become a fixture at Royal Ascot.
Top French chef Raymond Blanc has become a fixture at Royal Ascot.
Nicole Hains/Ascot racecourse
Blanc, owner of the two Michelin-starred <a href="https://www.belmond.com/hotels/europe/uk/oxfordshire/belmond-le-manoir-aux-quat-saisons/" target="_blank" target="_blank">Le Manor aux Quat'Saisons</a> in Oxfordshire, will oversee the showpiece Panoramic Restaurant in the Royal Enclosure.
Blanc, owner of the two Michelin-starred Le Manor aux Quat'Saisons in Oxfordshire, will oversee the showpiece Panoramic Restaurant in the Royal Enclosure.
Tristan Fewings/Getty Images Europe
Among Blanc's treats are scorched mackerel, horseradish tartare and pickled vegetables.
Among Blanc's treats are scorched mackerel, horseradish tartare and pickled vegetables.
Nicole Hains/Ascot
<a href="https://www.hide.co.uk/ollie" target="_blank" target="_blank">Ollie Dabbous</a>, the founder of the Michelin-starred <a href="https://www.hide.co.uk/" target="_blank" target="_blank">HIDE</a> in Mayfair, London, made his debut at Royal Ascot's The Balmoral restaurant in 2019 and will return to launch Holyroodhouse in the Royal Enclosure.
Ollie Dabbous, the founder of the Michelin-starred HIDE in Mayfair, London, made his debut at Royal Ascot's The Balmoral restaurant in 2019 and will return to launch Holyroodhouse in the Royal Enclosure.
Nicole Hains/Ascot
Some of the world's top chefs are doing battle in horse racing's gastronomic Derby as tracks bid to offer the ultimate in fine-dining experiences.
Some of the world's top chefs are doing battle in horse racing's gastronomic Derby as tracks bid to offer the ultimate in fine-dining experiences.
Nicole Hains/Ascot
<a href="https://www.simonrogan.co.uk/restaurants" target="_blank" target="_blank">Simon Rogan</a>, an owner of four stars across his dining empire, will be back for a third year with a pop-up restaurant in the Royal Enclosure Gardens.
Simon Rogan, an owner of four stars across his dining empire, will be back for a third year with a pop-up restaurant in the Royal Enclosure Gardens.
Ascot Racecourse
Rogan will also curate the menu for the Green Yard restaurant, also in the Royal Enclosure.
Rogan will also curate the menu for the Green Yard restaurant, also in the Royal Enclosure.
Royal Ascot
Royal Ascot is a highlight of the British sporting and social calendar.
Royal Ascot is a highlight of the British sporting and social calendar.
Alan Crowhurst/Getty Images
 A new name to Royal Ascot's culinary stakes is Samoan-born, New Zealand native Monica Galetti, who will take up residence of The Balmoral in the Royal Enclosure.
A new name to Royal Ascot's culinary stakes is Samoan-born, New Zealand native Monica Galetti, who will take up residence of The Balmoral in the Royal Enclosure.
Ascot Racecourse
Galetti is chef proprietor of <a href="https://mere-restaurant.com/" target="_blank" target="_blank">Mere</a> in London.
Galetti is chef proprietor of Mere in London.
Ascot racecourse
Galetti's venison tartare.
Galetti's venison tartare.
Royal Ascot
Brett Graham, the winner of two Michelin stars as head chef at <a href="https://www.theledbury.com/" target="_blank" target="_blank">The Ledbury</a>, also in London, will also make his Royal Ascot debut in the airy <a href="https://www.ascot.co.uk/fine-dining/on5" target="_blank" target="_blank">ON 5 restaurant</a> on the fifth floor of the grandstand in the Queen Anne Enclosure.
Brett Graham, the winner of two Michelin stars as head chef at The Ledbury, also in London, will also make his Royal Ascot debut in the airy ON 5 restaurant on the fifth floor of the grandstand in the Queen Anne Enclosure.
Ascot Racecourse
Britain's Queen Elizabeth II is a fixture at Royal Ascot and opens each day of the famous meeting with the Royal Procession.
Britain's Queen Elizabeth II is a fixture at Royal Ascot and opens each day of the famous meeting with the Royal Procession.
John Hoy/Ascot racecourse
"Ascot is a leading light in sporting venue gastronomy and we have an incredible platform to showcase some of the world's top chefs," said Ascot's Jonathan Parker, director of food and beverage.
"Ascot is a leading light in sporting venue gastronomy and we have an incredible platform to showcase some of the world's top chefs," said Ascot's Jonathan Parker, director of food and beverage.
Ascot racecourse
Celebrated French chef Albert Roux (left) will team up with granddaughter Emily and son Michel Roux Jr., to offer the Chez Roux dining experience at three of the UK's leading race meetings in 2020.
Celebrated French chef Albert Roux (left) will team up with granddaughter Emily and son Michel Roux Jr., to offer the Chez Roux dining experience at three of the UK's leading race meetings in 2020.
Anthony Upton for The Jockey Club
The trio's talents will be on show at jump racing's Cheltenham Festival, the Guineas meeting at Newmarket and the Epsom Derby.
The trio's talents will be on show at jump racing's Cheltenham Festival, the Guineas meeting at Newmarket and the Epsom Derby.
Simon John Owen for The Jockey Club
Michel Roux Jr. is owner of the Michelin-starred Le Gavroche, founded by his father Albert and his brother Michel, in London's Mayfair.
Michel Roux Jr. is owner of the Michelin-starred Le Gavroche, founded by his father Albert and his brother Michel, in London's Mayfair.
Steven Paston/The Jockey Club via PA Images
Menus include treats such as duck tourte with roasted parsnips, cranberry and orange compote, and red wine and port jus, or maple-cured loin of Highland venison with ragout, pecan-crusted butternut squash, pommes dauphine and sage.
Menus include treats such as duck tourte with roasted parsnips, cranberry and orange compote, and red wine and port jus, or maple-cured loin of Highland venison with ragout, pecan-crusted butternut squash, pommes dauphine and sage.
Steven Paston/The Jockey Club
Paris' historic Longchamp racecourse underwent a $140 million revamp in 2016.
Paris' historic Longchamp racecourse underwent a $140 million revamp in 2016.
Michel Denancé/Dominique Perrault Architecture
Its signature Panorama restaurant has sweeping view over Paris' business district and the leafy Bois de Boulogne to the east.
Its signature Panorama restaurant has sweeping view over Paris' business district and the leafy Bois de Boulogne to the east.
Vincent Fillon/Dominique Perrault Architecture
Le Panorama overlooks the famous track, with the distant Eiffel Tower visible above the woods.
Le Panorama overlooks the famous track, with the distant Eiffel Tower visible above the woods.
ParisLongchamp
For 2019, celebrated French chef Thierry Marx signed off the menu in Le Panorama.
For 2019, celebrated French chef Thierry Marx signed off the menu in Le Panorama.
ParisLongchamp
"I really like the world of fine dining, and carefully chosen clothes, and the world of horses. It's a world of quality. I only believe in one economy:  the economy of quality and racing is definitely part of that," Marx told CNN's Winning Post.
"I really like the world of fine dining, and carefully chosen clothes, and the world of horses. It's a world of quality. I only believe in one economy: the economy of quality and racing is definitely part of that," Marx told CNN's Winning Post.
ParisLongchamp
The new ParisLongchamp grandstand was designed by renowned French architect Dominique Perrault.
The new ParisLongchamp grandstand was designed by renowned French architect Dominique Perrault.
Vincent Fillon/Dominique Perrault Architecture
The overhanging floors were designed to evoke the feeling of a galloping race horse with colors to match the autumnal hues of the Bois de Boulogne.
The overhanging floors were designed to evoke the feeling of a galloping race horse with colors to match the autumnal hues of the Bois de Boulogne.
Vincent Fillon/Dominique Perrault Architecture
Marx, a huge horse racing fan, is the brains behind Sur Mesure at the<a href="https://www.mandarinoriental.com" target="_blank" target="_blank"> Mandarin Oriental</a> in Paris.
Marx, a huge horse racing fan, is the brains behind Sur Mesure at the Mandarin Oriental in Paris.
Justin Prinz/France Galop
Longchamp has other feature eateries such as the Brasserie.
Longchamp has other feature eateries such as the Brasserie.
ParisLongchamp/Bruno Vandevelde
The famous Melbourne Cup Carnival at Flemington in Australia is another race meeting where the hospitality is as eye-catching as the horses.
The famous Melbourne Cup Carnival at Flemington in Australia is another race meeting where the hospitality is as eye-catching as the horses.
Daniel Pockett/Getty Images
In 2018, New Zealand chef Ben Shewry wowed his guests in the Lexus pavilion with a Lamington dessert topped with crushed black ants -- he used 55,000 in all.
In 2018, New Zealand chef Ben Shewry wowed his guests in the Lexus pavilion with a Lamington dessert topped with crushed black ants -- he used 55,000 in all.
EVH Agency
The swanky Birdcage VIP enclave is the place to be seen, with brands bidding to outdo each other in the pursuit of the ultimate "experience." Usain Bolt has been a regular visitor.
The swanky Birdcage VIP enclave is the place to be seen, with brands bidding to outdo each other in the pursuit of the ultimate "experience." Usain Bolt has been a regular visitor.
James Gourley/Getty Images
The Bird Bath Bar is a new addition to the Birdcage marquee area.
The Bird Bath Bar is a new addition to the Birdcage marquee area.
Robert Cianflone/Getty Images
Renowned Australian chef Neil Perry of Sydney's <a href="http://www.rockpoolbarandgrill.com.au/" target="_blank" target="_blank">Rockpool</a> is a regular ambassador in the Lexus pavilion.
Renowned Australian chef Neil Perry of Sydney's Rockpool is a regular ambassador in the Lexus pavilion.
Robert Cianflone/Getty Images
Australian chefs Matt Stone and Jo Barret of the <a href="https://www.oakridgewines.com.au/" target="_blank" target="_blank">Oakridge restaurant</a> in Victoria's Yarra Valley oversee a 90-seater, three-storey restaurant for Lexus.
Australian chefs Matt Stone and Jo Barret of the Oakridge restaurant in Victoria's Yarra Valley oversee a 90-seater, three-storey restaurant for Lexus.
Lexus/Melbourne Cup